Down Command

There are two types of Down Command, the behavioral/ situational Down like in public while you are busy doing something and the positional down that looks cute and fancy, which other commands can be built off later. Later, we build the Stay Command slowly by adding on distractions, duration and distance as per your dog’s threshold, so we don’t create a fear factor where they want to take off or freeze into a command. That looks horrible. And every dog is different and learns at a different. However, every dog can learn at any age any time.

Place the dog in the down position, either with a command or a lure, then stand on the leash close to the dog’s collar. The leash should be short enough to keep the dog from standing up. Give the stay command. Praise seconds for as long as the dog remains in the down position, especially when any distractions occur. When you deliver the praise, be sure that you do not unintentionally lure the dog out of the down position. If the dog attempts to get up, keep your foot (or feet!) planted on the leash, and quickly lure the dog back into the down position. Do not just stand there while the dog struggles to get up. This will only frighten him, and if you have a large dog you may end up getting your feet jerked out from under you. Your goal is to show the dog that a) it is impossible (or at least very uncomfortable) to get up, and b) you get tasty treats for being in the down position.

After a minute or so, return to your dog in a heeling position. Release by saying heel…not “okay”. Over time, increase the length of the stay. As a rule of thumb, add about 30 seconds per training session. After about a week of daily sessions, start adding mild distractions.

Some good beginning distractions: Drop your keys a few feet away from the dog. Clap your hands. Whistle. Slap the side of your leg. Pet your dog. Have people walk by at a distance without trying to attract the dog.

More advanced distractions (week 2): Drop a treat on the ground a few feet from the dog. Have people walk past him. Toss a magazine on the ground. Do stays with children playing nearby. Have someone honk a car horn. Have someone walk another dog past him. Swing your arms around in circles.

Really tough advanced distractions (weeks 3 and 4): Have someone try to entice your dog out of position, first using inviting voice commands, then trying to lure him with treats. Have someone walk their dog up and have it stay a few feet from yours (only if both dogs are friendly).  Have children and adults pet him. Have children run past him. Practice in congested areas (storefronts, playgrounds, etc.) Over time increase distractions and length of the stay until the dog will remain down for about five to ten minutes with intense deliberate distractions. Only then should you remove your foot from the leash and start to move away from the dog.

Go to a quiet area with no distractions and practice with your feet on the leash for a few minutes. Then place your dog in a down, but don’t stand on the leash. Step in front of him and stand just a couple of feet away.

Should your dog try to get up, reprimand him with a stern NO! and lead him right back down. When you feel that the dog will stay, move just a little further away (to maybe 4 feet). Move a couple of feet further away during each training session. Should your dog move from position, reprimand him with a sharp NO, lead him back to where he was supposed to be staying, and put him back in the down position. Then repeat the exercise. If your dog keeps breaking the stay, you may have advanced too quickly. Take a couple of steps back in your training program (stand closer to the dog, or maybe go back to standing on the leash), then proceed forward more slowly after a bit of remedial practice. When the dog will stay with you standing ten or twenty feet away, gradually reintroduce distractions and length of the stay.